The normal italian route, or Lion ridge, is still the same route that the first climbers used to follow. The first guides of the company were Jean-Antoine Carrel (named Il Bersagliere), together with the famous abbot and historian Amé Gorret.
Once you reach the Oriondé / Duca degli Abruzzi refuge (nearby is the Croce Carrel) the road climbs up a long series of plaques up to the Colle del Leone where the climb to the top begins. The stop at the suggestive Carrel refuge allows to recover the strength for the next day, when at dawn the guide and his client, through the Pic Tyndall and his vertiginous panoramas of the Jordan scale, will reach the summit and touch the Cross erected in 1902 together.
It is also possible to climb the other three ridges.
The crest of the Hörnli is to be considered as the normal Swiss route on which Edward Whymper with his guides went first.
Both the Furggen and Zmutt ridges, less frequented, are full of challenging passages.
Since 1865, year of the conquest, our guides regularly climb the Matterhorn to take willing clients to climb it or challenge it in a new way.
Italian route, Lion ridge
meeting point at 10/10.30 at the Guides’ Office in Breuil Cervinia. You reach the refuge Duca degli Abruzzi using the lifts or by 4WD ( it costs 25/50 euros per person). Then you begin to climb up to the Carrel Hut where you will spend the night . It is about 4-5 hours walk and a climb of 1028 m.
The hut is equipped with blankets, beds and mattresses. There is no running water at the hut.
you set up early in the morning to reach the summit and then go down to Breuil Cervinia. The second day is very difficult and long, as it is about 12-14 hours of walk/climb in height ( 650 m up and 1678 m down).
The climb is for medium alpinists, very well trained to climb and to walk many hours in altitude, with experience on mixed terrain. The climb is rated by 3° with steps of 4. The route is equipped with fixed ropes to help you during the most difficult passages.
Swiss normal route, Hörnli ridge
Meeting with the guide at the guide office. Departure with the lifts up to Plateau Rosa and descent on the glacier to Schwarzsee (2584 m.) by foot or with the lifts. Ascent of about 2 hours to reach the Hörnlihutte refuge (3260 m.). Dinner and overnight stay.
Departure at dawn and climb along the ridge to the Swiss summit. Descent and return with the lifts up to the Piccolo Cervino. In about 1 hour, you reach Plateau Rosa where you take the lifts to Breuil Cervinia. There is approximately 1220 m in altitude and 12 -14 hours of walking.
Traverse Lion ridge – Hörnli ridge
Meeting with the guide at our office at about 10.30 am – ascent to the Oriondé Refuge (mt. 2,800) from which you reach in about 4/5 hours Capanna Carrel (3,850 m). Possibility of getting on a 4WD taxi from Breuil Cervinia up to the Oriondé (costs 25/50 euros per person). The positive height difference is 1028 m.
Departure at 4.30 from the hut and climb to the summit in about 4/5 hours, crossing and descending along the Hörnli ridge, up to Hörnlihutte. From there, continue to Schwarzsee where you take the lifts up to the Piccolo Cervino. You reach Plateau Rosa on foot in about an hour, walking down the glacier. At Plateau, take the cable car up to Breuil Cervinia. On the second day, a total of about 12 to 15 hours of climbing and altitude walking are required.
Lion Ridge: €1200,00 1 person
Hörnli Ridge: €1200,00 1 person
Traverse Lion Ridge – Hörnli Ridge: €1400,00 1 person
Furggen Ridge: Private Negotiation – 1 person
Zmutt Ridge: Private Negotiation – 1 person