A Once in a Lifetime Experience with Those Who Know the Mountain Best - The Cervino Guides
Climbing the Matterhorn is much more than reaching a summit: it is touching a symbol, living a dream. This is a mountain that leaves no improvisation, where every step counts and every detail must be known. Climbing with a Guide of Cervino is not only a choice for safety - it is a unique privilege.
We are local guides, raised in the shadow of the mountain. We know every rock, every section, every change in the weather. Our history is inseparably linked to the Matterhorn since the first ascents, and today we still accompany climbers every day with the same passion and respect.
The Italian normal route, or Leone Ridge, is the path first climbed by the early guides of the local society, led by Jean-Antoine Carrel, nicknamed “Il Bersagliere,” who had among his climbing partners the famous historian and priest Amé Gorret. From Rifugio Oriondé/Duca degli Abruzzi (near the Carrel Cross), the route climbs a long series of slabs to the Colle del Leone, where the final ascent to the summit begins. A stop at the charming Capanna Carrel allows climbers to regain strength for the next day, when at dawn the guide and client traverse Pic Tyndall and the dizzying Jordan Ladder to reach the summit and touch the cross erected in 1902.
Other ridges are also climbable. The Hörnli Ridge is the Swiss normal route, first ascended by Edward Whymper and his guides. The Furggen and Zmutt Ridges, less frequented, offer challenging passages for experienced climbers.
Matterhorn Traverse – Leone Ridge / Hörnli Ridge
One of the most beautiful traverses in the Alps. Ascend via the Italian route (Leone) and descend via the Swiss side (Hörnli), or vice versa. This itinerary offers a complete view of the mountain and an unparalleled aesthetic and technical experience.
Leone Ridge – Hörnli Ridge Traverse
Day 1
Meeting the guide at our office around 10:30 am. Ascent to Rifugio Oriondé (2,800 m), then continue for about 4–5 hours to Capanna Carrel (3,850 m). Option to take a jeep from Breuil to Oriondé (cost: €25–€50 per person). Positive elevation gain: 1,028 m.
Capanna Carrel is equipped with beds, blankets, and mattresses. There is a gas stove for cooking, but no running water.
Day 2
Departure at 4:30 am from the hut. Climb to the summit in about 4–5 hours, traverse, and descent along the Hörnli Ridge to the Hörnlihütte. Continue to Schwarzsee, then take the lifts to Klein Matterhorn. Walk across the glacier to Plateau Rosa (about 1 hour), then take the cable car back to Breuil-Cervinia. Total climbing and high-altitude walking for the day: approximately 12–15 hours.
Traverse Italian to Swiss route : € 1700,00 – 1 person
