Cervino (4478m) Normal Route

People
person
Duration
days
Period
From July to September based on the conditions
Difficulties
Excellent physical fitness and confident technical ability on mixed alpine terrain

With the Cervino Guides – The experience of a lifetime, with those who know it best

Climbing the Matterhorn is much more than reaching a summit: it’s touching a symbol, living a dream.

This is a mountain that leaves no room for improvisation—every step counts, and every detail matters.

That’s why facing this climb with a Cervino Guide is not just a choice for safety, but a unique privilege.

We are local guides, raised in the shadow of this perfect pyramid. We know every rock, every feature, every change in weather.

Our history is inseparably tied to the Matterhorn since the first ascents, and even today we climb it daily with the same passion and respect.

 

The Italian Normal Route – Lion Ridge

This is the most direct and classic route from the Italian side, starting from Cervinia.

It follows the historic Lion Ridge, with equipped sections leading to the summit.

Exposed passages, fixed ropes, and rocky terrain make this a technical and physical climb, suitable for mountaineers with previous alpine experience.

Two ascent options:

  • In one day: for very fit, well-acclimatised climbers – starting from Rifugio Oriondé, ascent and return in the same day (1,600 m elevation gain)
  • With overnight at the Carrel Hut (3,830 m): ascent to the hut on day one, overnight, and summit climb on day two, descending all the way back to the valley.

Italian Normal Route – Lion Ridge Program

Day 1

Meeting with the guide at our office around 10:30 a.m.

Ascent by cable car to Plan Maison (2,550 m), then about 1.5 hours to Rifugio Oriondé (2,800 m).

From there, 4–5 hours to the Carrel Hut (3,850 m).

(Jeep transport from Breuil-Cervinia to Oriondé is possible – cost €25–€50 per person).

Elevation gain: +1,028 m.

The Carrel Hut has beds, blankets, and mattresses, but no running water.

Day 2

Departure at 4:30 a.m. from the hut, ascent to the summit in about 4–5 hours, and full descent to the valley.

Total: 12–14 hours of climbing and hiking at altitude.

Elevation gain: +650 m, elevation loss: –1,678 m.

Difficulty: mostly Grade III with sections of IV+ – for well-trained mountaineers accustomed to long climbs and mixed terrain.

The route is equipped with fixed ropes on the most difficult passages.

The Swiss Normal Route – Hörnli Ridge

From the Swiss side, starting in Zermatt with an overnight stay at the historic Hörnlihütte, this is the most popular route.

It’s longer but slightly less technical than the Italian side, alternating rock climbing, ridge walking, and fixed sections.

A great alternative if conditions are better on the northern side, or for those who wish to experience the Swiss atmosphere of the Matterhorn.

Swiss Normal Route – Hörnli Ridge Program

Day 1

Meeting with the guide at the office.

Ascent by cable car to Plateau Rosa, then descent on the glacier to Schwarzsee (2,584 m) either on foot or by lift.

2-hour climb to reach the Hörnlihütte (3,260 m). Dinner and overnight stay.

Day 2

Early start and ascent along the ridge to the Swiss summit.

Descent and return by lifts to the Klein Matterhorn, then to Plateau Rosa, and back to Breuil-Cervinia.

Approx. 1,220 m of elevation gain and 12–14 hours of climbing and hiking.

Lion Ridge: €1500,00 – 1 person

Hörnli Ridge: €1500,00 – 1 person

Included in the price
Alpine guide service and professional insurance.
Half board at Capanna Carrel
Not included in the price
Lift tickets, your own half board at the Hörnlihütte (approx. €150), and guide’s accommodation and meals.
Rental of equipment (crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness) available at the guide office

Book your experience now

Book your experience with the Matterhorn Mountain Guides now by contacting us at the following numbers:
+39 0166 948169
+39 393 8868597
info@guidedelcervino.com